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Its darkened and withered and spoiled. The Marthas The Marthas are the domestic worker class of Gilead: the house servant who cannot bear children, but can raise them. She created a look that she calls domestic Russian communist meets Liz Taylor in the 60s, because even though something is ugly, she wants it to be cinematically, beautifully ugly. Crabtree discovered her inspiration for the color of their uniforms in nature. I found this beautiful close-up of a moth thats quite furry, feathery, and it was faded like it had lost its color, she said. That to me, emotionally, was the Marthas. They are not fertile, so they become the domestic servants of this world. She added, The Marthas are the ones that wither into their environment. So the costume, I wanted to reflect that. The Commanders Crabtree decided that the more powerful a person is in Gilead, the darker the color of their uniform. So the men with the most power, the Commanders, would be in black because it is the color that absorbs all other color. Still, she wanted to be careful of the kind of black she used, and went back to Alfred Hitchcock films as a reference. To have somebody in matte black is so boring it almost doesnt equate to power, she said. So what I tried to find were old-school, 50s, 60s wools that had quite a lot of dimension in them, and a kind of classicism that not only is evident in Hitchcock, but also in Joseph Beuyss beautiful gray flannel suit as an art piece. Crabtree, who is half-Okinawan, also threw in a touch of Shinto symbology, adding a white star on the shoulder of the jacket with some roping around it. It feels sinister, slightly like animation because I also looked to the animation parts of the Wall for a little bit of that feeling. Matthew Barney and Shinto are impregnated into the commanders look as an officer. The Driver For Max Minghellas character, the driver, Crabtree got inspired by Cary Grant in North by Northwest.
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